GERIATRICKING
We are nearing the half way stage of our holiday adventure, so it’s time to take stock. Before we set out we both wondered if at our age and both with obvious physical frailties whether this would turn out to be one step too far. But we both knew that if we didn’t try we would never know what our limits were, it was this year or chickening out for ever. Nevertheless it was a big step. Five years after similar expeditions to Sumatra and India in the first year of retirement, and with the additional hazards of large numbers of pickpockets and violent street crime.
Whatever happens now, and it probably will, this trip is one of the highlights of a well travelled life. One to rival cycle touring on the continent at 16, driving across the Excited States of America at 21, real backpacking with the family along the Grandes Randonnees of France, delivering New Beneteau Yachts to Greece, or this style of travel to Nepal, Sarawak, Sumatra and India. Joan has gained new confidence in her footing and balance, it’s hard to realise that she fell over several times this winter walking on the relatively flat but muddy cliff paths of Gower, or slipped over a cliff in Cinque Terra last autumn only to be saved by Blackberry brambles. Strength and confidence has returned at last to her ankle, which was in plaster 18 months ago. Her back too seems to have fully recovered from that painful slipped disc. All that remains is difficulty and pain in straightening her leg to stand up after sitting, she always lifts herself with the good left leg. As the Chilean doctor, we met, remarked, it’s a testament to her spirit and determination. I just hope we are not overdoing it now, because otherwise it will be all for the good physically.
We have been absolutely delighted with the warm reception we have received everywhere, crime is a thing apart, but we did anticipate resentment of our buying power. In a land where so many are unemployed and most of the workers whether teachers (who are now on strike) or farm labourers earn the minimum wage of 410 soles per month, 85 pounds. But there is not the sign of great wealth that so disfigures India, the States and increasingly our South East. For all the terrible poverty this country at least aims for reasonable equality. There are very few private cars on the streets of Lima and almost none elsewhere, so the streets are full of cheap taxis. Using taxis to get through dangerous areas is the first rule of street wisdom. Still since diesel is about 2 pounds a gallon, and cars and parts are going to be similar, if not higher costs than our own, and the roads are so poor many British drivers would refuse to risk their precious possessions on them, the juddering and tire wear are far beyond anything encountered today in Europe. It seems amazing to me that they can make any money. One upside of using taxis is that I rarely have to carry the rucksack, but we have had to change style, so instead of walking around a few hotels before settling on one it is important to know exactly which hotel you want to try first. The taxi drivers as always want to take you to the hotel where they will get a good commission.
On the basic side, it’s a pity we left valuable slide film at home and brought two bars of soap, two large towels and two toilet rolls that we have never had to use. The minor difficulty of getting into the bottom pocket of the rucksack means Joan has clothes she has never worn. I too have too many unused, but we shall need the warm clothing when we more up to 4000 metres, the next step. We took 2.5 kilos of washing to the laundry today, which means the same old clothes can be recycled for the vast cost of 3 pounds. The stainless steel rucksack security net has been worthwhile, since it essentially means I have my own portable safe and so can leave at least half the valuables locked inside. Given the risk of violent crime valuables are far safer in the relative safety of the hold of a bus or a hotel room than they would be hidden on the person. We expected diarrhoea to be a major hazard, but so far our bowels have been extremely well behaved, which I attribute to eating in popular restaurants with a reputation for good food even if some are in the 50p category. We are however beginning to get tired of the diet, so few vegetables, just meat or fish often with rice and potatoes. You even get tired of quality beef steak and chips after a while. The plus side of the diet are the superb home made soups, a meal in themselves as Heinz would claim, and real freshly made lemonade. Another craving is for nice fresh bread, though we have recently discovered they make quite good brioche.
ATM are available everywhere, they clearly weren‘t when the Lonely Planet was updated in 1999. Getting cash with cards is no problem at all, as long as the machines don’t swallow them (Cinque Terra) or pickpockets steal them (Palermo).
One of the beauties of having no fixed itinerary is that you decide from day to day where to go next. Before we left home we imagined that Cajamarca would be our first stop but we stayed first at Trujillo and then Chiclayo and then on the advice of the Germans from Edinburgh went to Chachapoyas next, so three weeks later here we are at Cajamarca. Tomorrow we were going by bus to Huaraz in the high snow covered Andes, but on reading today’s paper we learn that the farmers are now blocking the roads and bus travel is not possible. So tomorrow we fly to Lima where we will try for the earliest flight to Cusco. So now it’s Machu Pichu etc, Lake Titcaca, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco and back to Lima, so Huaraz will be our last stop. This really is their winter of discontent, a transport strike and road block held us in Trujillo, immediately afterwards the teachers went on strike and they are still out, now the farmers are blockading the roads. We might get our 90 days here yet!
Our budget was 50 pounds a day all in, so far we are running below that figure, but no doubt the popular tourist area of Cusco will be more expensive, and it looks as if we will have to fly more than intended. We will see.
As for my Spanish it is improving, I’m beginning to have confidence in the ability to make myself understood, even if I don’t understand all they say to me it’s enough to wheedle out the meaning. I wish I could stop saying grazie (Italian) instead of gracias, and qui (French) instead of que, and roll my r’s then I might get the intended cordero (lamb) instead of conejo (rabbit), though that didn’t prevent me sending it back! The major problem is that my vocabulary is far too insecure and limited, and my grammatical knowledge is far in advance of what I need for really good survival. There are only a few travellers in the north, but almost all of them speak fluent Spanish (even the English!) and obviously understand the replies, again vocab is probably the root of my problem. The only word difference I’ve noticed is the use of boleta instead of billeta for ticket, though they use chancho as well as cerdo for pork. Given the huge difference there is between French and French Canadian the lack of diversion is amazing, and they kicked the Spanish out in 1820.
We are nearing the half way stage of our holiday adventure, so it’s time to take stock. Before we set out we both wondered if at our age and both with obvious physical frailties whether this would turn out to be one step too far. But we both knew that if we didn’t try we would never know what our limits were, it was this year or chickening out for ever. Nevertheless it was a big step. Five years after similar expeditions to Sumatra and India in the first year of retirement, and with the additional hazards of large numbers of pickpockets and violent street crime.
Whatever happens now, and it probably will, this trip is one of the highlights of a well travelled life. One to rival cycle touring on the continent at 16, driving across the Excited States of America at 21, real backpacking with the family along the Grandes Randonnees of France, delivering New Beneteau Yachts to Greece, or this style of travel to Nepal, Sarawak, Sumatra and India. Joan has gained new confidence in her footing and balance, it’s hard to realise that she fell over several times this winter walking on the relatively flat but muddy cliff paths of Gower, or slipped over a cliff in Cinque Terra last autumn only to be saved by Blackberry brambles. Strength and confidence has returned at last to her ankle, which was in plaster 18 months ago. Her back too seems to have fully recovered from that painful slipped disc. All that remains is difficulty and pain in straightening her leg to stand up after sitting, she always lifts herself with the good left leg. As the Chilean doctor, we met, remarked, it’s a testament to her spirit and determination. I just hope we are not overdoing it now, because otherwise it will be all for the good physically.
We have been absolutely delighted with the warm reception we have received everywhere, crime is a thing apart, but we did anticipate resentment of our buying power. In a land where so many are unemployed and most of the workers whether teachers (who are now on strike) or farm labourers earn the minimum wage of 410 soles per month, 85 pounds. But there is not the sign of great wealth that so disfigures India, the States and increasingly our South East. For all the terrible poverty this country at least aims for reasonable equality. There are very few private cars on the streets of Lima and almost none elsewhere, so the streets are full of cheap taxis. Using taxis to get through dangerous areas is the first rule of street wisdom. Still since diesel is about 2 pounds a gallon, and cars and parts are going to be similar, if not higher costs than our own, and the roads are so poor many British drivers would refuse to risk their precious possessions on them, the juddering and tire wear are far beyond anything encountered today in Europe. It seems amazing to me that they can make any money. One upside of using taxis is that I rarely have to carry the rucksack, but we have had to change style, so instead of walking around a few hotels before settling on one it is important to know exactly which hotel you want to try first. The taxi drivers as always want to take you to the hotel where they will get a good commission.
On the basic side, it’s a pity we left valuable slide film at home and brought two bars of soap, two large towels and two toilet rolls that we have never had to use. The minor difficulty of getting into the bottom pocket of the rucksack means Joan has clothes she has never worn. I too have too many unused, but we shall need the warm clothing when we more up to 4000 metres, the next step. We took 2.5 kilos of washing to the laundry today, which means the same old clothes can be recycled for the vast cost of 3 pounds. The stainless steel rucksack security net has been worthwhile, since it essentially means I have my own portable safe and so can leave at least half the valuables locked inside. Given the risk of violent crime valuables are far safer in the relative safety of the hold of a bus or a hotel room than they would be hidden on the person. We expected diarrhoea to be a major hazard, but so far our bowels have been extremely well behaved, which I attribute to eating in popular restaurants with a reputation for good food even if some are in the 50p category. We are however beginning to get tired of the diet, so few vegetables, just meat or fish often with rice and potatoes. You even get tired of quality beef steak and chips after a while. The plus side of the diet are the superb home made soups, a meal in themselves as Heinz would claim, and real freshly made lemonade. Another craving is for nice fresh bread, though we have recently discovered they make quite good brioche.
ATM are available everywhere, they clearly weren‘t when the Lonely Planet was updated in 1999. Getting cash with cards is no problem at all, as long as the machines don’t swallow them (Cinque Terra) or pickpockets steal them (Palermo).
One of the beauties of having no fixed itinerary is that you decide from day to day where to go next. Before we left home we imagined that Cajamarca would be our first stop but we stayed first at Trujillo and then Chiclayo and then on the advice of the Germans from Edinburgh went to Chachapoyas next, so three weeks later here we are at Cajamarca. Tomorrow we were going by bus to Huaraz in the high snow covered Andes, but on reading today’s paper we learn that the farmers are now blocking the roads and bus travel is not possible. So tomorrow we fly to Lima where we will try for the earliest flight to Cusco. So now it’s Machu Pichu etc, Lake Titcaca, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco and back to Lima, so Huaraz will be our last stop. This really is their winter of discontent, a transport strike and road block held us in Trujillo, immediately afterwards the teachers went on strike and they are still out, now the farmers are blockading the roads. We might get our 90 days here yet!
Our budget was 50 pounds a day all in, so far we are running below that figure, but no doubt the popular tourist area of Cusco will be more expensive, and it looks as if we will have to fly more than intended. We will see.
As for my Spanish it is improving, I’m beginning to have confidence in the ability to make myself understood, even if I don’t understand all they say to me it’s enough to wheedle out the meaning. I wish I could stop saying grazie (Italian) instead of gracias, and qui (French) instead of que, and roll my r’s then I might get the intended cordero (lamb) instead of conejo (rabbit), though that didn’t prevent me sending it back! The major problem is that my vocabulary is far too insecure and limited, and my grammatical knowledge is far in advance of what I need for really good survival. There are only a few travellers in the north, but almost all of them speak fluent Spanish (even the English!) and obviously understand the replies, again vocab is probably the root of my problem. The only word difference I’ve noticed is the use of boleta instead of billeta for ticket, though they use chancho as well as cerdo for pork. Given the huge difference there is between French and French Canadian the lack of diversion is amazing, and they kicked the Spanish out in 1820.
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